Trey Ellis

  • Trey Ellis


    To those who don’t do it, much of the appeal of surfing—like being a cowboy or an astronaut—is in being seen as a surfer. But then there’s William Finnegan, who was an early witness to the surf revolution, from Old Man’s at San Onofre, California, to the never-ending wave machine off Waikiki, Hawaii, all before he’d left middle school. In his extraordinary and now Pulitzer Prize–winning memoir, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Penguin, 2015), Finnegan relates in sharp, complicated, moment-to-moment fullness a half-century of wave riding and thinking about wave riding all around