TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRINT October 1987

ICE WAS, ICE WILL BE

THIS PAGE could be stamped with the word “before”; the facing page could get the partner word that comes along with “before” in so many contemporary layouts intended to illustrate change, the word “after.” The picture on this page was taken “before”: before honeymooning on the first Queen Elizabeth became fashionable; before travel magazines made aquamarine the only imaginable color acceptable for an ocean; before drug companies made over-the-top profits with travel pills; before those thick, impossible-to-understand frequent-flyer envelopes; before the excuse of jet lag—before practically nowhere on earth was left that hadn’t been photographed and picturesqued into a souvenir, before the idea of struggle in travel became more expensive than the streamlined way to go.

THE PICTURES on the opposite page were taken “after”: after the era of exploration had come to seem a romance of the past,

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