PRINT January 1996


READY-MADE EXOTICISM, chic urbanity, squeaky-clean sexuality: by and large the image of fashion that comes at us from the top-end glossies trades on a narrow range of esthetic codes. But fashion—at least fashion that goes beyond ossified convention—happens where the street meets the showroom; however entangled the umbilical cord that joins the two, the connection guarantees life. The most vaunted of couturiers have always been bottom feeders when and where it counts, and today the work of fashion’s most innovative photographers, as much as fashion itself, feeds on the culture of the club and street. The new photographers traverse multiple scenes; when it comes to fashion, they are likely to be found backstage, shooting the designs of their peers with little certainty that their pictures will be published. When, in recent years, new fashion images—images that speak the language of now—have

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