TABLE OF CONTENTS

FLASH TRACK: ANDERS EDSTROM PHOTOGRAPHS MARTIN MARGIELA

RATHER THAN SIMPLY showcasing Martin Margiela’s Fall/Winter ’96–’97 collection, Anders Edstrom’s dressed-down photographs capture those moments between show and studio: models sitting around sipping coffee, camping on standard catwalk poses, flashing toothy grins. As unstudied as they seem, these pictures mirror Margiela’s penchant for pure forms, for the disruptive energy that comes from busting up the conventions of slick, high-gloss glamour. Devoid of detailing, even zippers or fastenings, this latest collection, in which minimal garments are often held in back by nothing but elastics, initially seems monastic yet strategically reveals or hugs the body. Beige tunic-dresses with plunging necklines are accessorized by waist-cinching belts with oversized buckles and sheathlike gloves. The contrasts of Margiela’s latest line are playfully reflected in the photos shown opposite, from which

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