JONATHAN NOSSITER’S documentary on the globalization of the wine industry, Mondovino—which opens this month in New York and Los Angeles—deals with its subject intelligently and ardently, but it makes its case against globalization so quickly (and so convincingly) that the ensuing amplification is anticlimactic. And there’s a lot of amplification. Nossiter, a filmmaker and professional sommelier, doesn’t take easy potshots at the internationalizing businesspeople he talks to; he lets the camera do it for him. Still, he listens carefully to both sides in the debate between the small vintners who cling heroically to the old methods—especially to the celebrated concept of terroir, the notion that where a wine is made should wield a far more profound influence on its character than how—and the modernists who advocate the transformation of the grape through new chemical techniques, and whose
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