To those who don’t do it, much of the appeal of surfinglike being a cowboy or an astronautis in being seen as a surfer. But then there’s William Finnegan, who was an early witness to the surf revolution, from Old Man’s at San Onofre, California, to the never-ending wave machine off Waikiki, Hawaii, all before he’d left middle school. In his extraordinary and now Pulitzer Prize–winning memoir, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Penguin, 2015), Finnegan relates in sharp, complicated, moment-to-moment fullness a half-century of wave riding and thinking about wave riding all around the world and almost always anonymously and out of the public gaze. But what truly elevates this memoir is its introspection. Finnegan, a longtime staff writer and war correspondent for the New Yorker, describes a peripatetic life lived achingly fullyet he remains scrupulously un
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