TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRINT January 2022

TOP TEN

Patric Dicaprio

Patric Dicaprio is a New York–based fashion designer and a cofounder and the creative director of Vaquera, a ready-to-wear label focused on redefining luxury fashion. Vaquera is in partnership with Comme des Garçon’s incubator program, Dover Street Market Paris, and shows collections two times a year. The label is known for its concept-driven clothing, keen cultural analysis, and energetic runway shows. Vaquera’s designs are in the collections of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Museum of London and are sold by thirty-six retailers worldwide.

  1. “BLUE,” THE BIRTHDAY MASSACRE

    Rage, longing, romance, self-loathing, hope, innocence, ambivalence—I bought the Birthday Massacre’s 2005 album, Violet, on CD from Hot Topic when I was fourteen. I would listen to “Blue” on my gold iPod Mini between classes in high school and grit my teeth. I love the way this song oscillates between nostalgic 1980s pop and sinister metal. “Blue” is a mall-goth classic that stands the test of time.

    Still from The Birthday Massacre’s 2005 video Blue, directed by Dan Ouellette. Chibi. Still from The Birthday Massacre’s 2005 video Blue, directed by Dan Ouellette. Chibi.
  2. AMERICAN APPAREL

    Love to hate it, hate to love it: Cancel me. Shopping at American Apparel between 2006 and 2011 was a religious experience. I remember my first visit: Fluorescent light was reflected in gold lamé as Justice played over the sound system while I nervously avoided eye contact with the store’s employees, acting like I didn’t know that my mother was waiting for me at the front. There was no greater thrill than buying a unisex deep-V-neck T-shirt and circle scarf and integrating them into my next lookbook.nu post.

  3. VLADIMIR NABOKOV, KING, QUEEN, KNAVE (MCGRAW-HILL, 1968)

    Ravishing and cinematic! A disturbing depiction of the perils of surrendering your free will to a tyrannical lunatic. The novel’s protagonist, Franz, is seduced by his uncle’s wife and drawn into a murderous plot to steal his fortune. The plot unfolds like a game of poker, where each player is at the mercy of the dealer and one card can change everything.

  4. DAVID LYNCH, WILD AT HEART (1990)

    Funny, terrifying, and mysterious—the perfect movie. I could watch it again and again and notice something new each time. Diane Ladd’s manic performance as Laura Dern’s fictional mother (she’s also her real-life mom) and the “Wicked Witch of the West” is everything.

    David Lynch, Wild at Heart, 1990, 35 mm, color, sound, 125 minutes. Lula Pace Fortune (Laura Dern) and Sailor Ripley (Nicolas Cage). David Lynch, Wild at Heart, 1990, 35 mm, color, sound, 125 minutes. Lula Pace Fortune (Laura Dern) and Sailor Ripley (Nicolas Cage).
  5. FINAL FANTASY IX (SQUARE ENIX, 2000)

    I watched a friend play this at a middle-school sleepover, and it blew my mind. It’s an incredibly complex role-playing game about accepting your own mortality and what it means to be “real.” Basically, the game is a steampunk pantomime of Jean Baudrillard’s 1981 book, Simulacra and Simulation, that follows a vagabond clone discovering his purpose in the face of an impending apocalypse. Relatable! Download it from the App Store.

    Screenshot from Hiroyuki Ito’s video game Final Fantasy IX (Square Enix, 2000). Screenshot from Hiroyuki Ito’s video game Final Fantasy IX (Square Enix, 2000).
  6. TRANSCENDENTAL MEDITATION

    A pyramid scheme? A cult? Maybe! But learning TM is like scraping your tongue: Once you start, the idea of stopping is repulsive.

    David Lynch and Russell Brand practice Transcendental Meditation with students at Phillip and Sala Burton Academic High School, San Francisco, May 6, 2013. Photo: Lea Suzuki/San Francisco Chronicle/Polaris. David Lynch and Russell Brand practice Transcendental Meditation with students at Phillip and Sala Burton Academic High School, San Francisco, May 6, 2013. Photo: Lea Suzuki/San Francisco Chronicle/Polaris.
  7. TIKTOK

    Blissful chaos. I have never felt more known than by the app’s “For You” algorithm. TikTok is the ultimate exquisite corpse: Microtrends are set and then reinvented at light speed. It is a social-media platform that turns your phone into a mutable tool for quickly expressing ideas. People tend to think of it as having a very specific aesthetic, purpose, demographic, whatever, but in reality there’s something for everyone.

    Screenshot from wtfcalvin’s October 30, 2021, TikTok video. Screenshot from wtfcalvin’s October 30, 2021, TikTok video.
  8. MARTIN MARGIELA, SPRING/SUMMER 1990 COLLECTION

    Margiela has a way of making the absurd seem emotional and brave. Discovering this show when I was starting my brand was so liberating because it made me realize fashion can be whatever you want, whenever you want, and wherever you want. And it doesn’t have to be so serious. This collection was shown in public, without assigned seating, in a playground on the outskirts of Paris. The clothes looked like garbage, and some pieces were exactly that. It even seemed as though the models had done their own makeup. All of this ran counter to the expectations of the late-1980s fashion industry. People were outraged, and I’m sure Margiela was thrilled.

    Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1990 presentation, Paris, October 19, 1989. Photo: Jean-Claude Coutausse. Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1990 presentation, Paris, October 19, 1989. Photo: Jean-Claude Coutausse.
  9. THE ENNEAGRAM

    My favorite typology and the antidote to the astrology epidemic. This school of thought categorizes people based on their most basic fears and desires. Character types one through nine are arranged on an ancient glyph that illustrates how one’s personality type integrates with the other types, or how it disintegrates into neurosis and destruction. Which type are you?

    Enneagram diagram illustration, 2016. Photo: EvgeniyBelyaev/Depositphotos. Enneagram diagram illustration, 2016. Photo: EvgeniyBelyaev/Depositphotos.
  10. JENNIFER PATERSON (1928–1999)

    The TV show Two Fat Ladies (1996–99) got me through a nasty case of vertigo. Seeing Jennifer’s chaotic approach to making food unlocked something in me. I binge-watched all twenty-four episodes and a YouTube documentary on her in one day. The next day, my illness began to recede, but my obsession with this songstress, chef, writer, devout Catholic, and actress remained. Major muse!