• Hussein Chalayan, “Kinship Journeys,” Autumn/Winter women’s wear collection, 2003. Photo: Chris Moore.

    Hussein Chalayan

    Groninger Museum
    Museumeiland 1
    April 10–September 4, 2005

    Curated by Sue-an van der Sijpp

    When a maverick designer straddles the line between art and fashion, he is apprehensively embraced by both industries—and often backed by neither. Unless he’s Hussein Chalayan, the Cypriot wunderkind who, since starting his women’s line in 1994, has transformed runway shows into Conceptual-art performances and merged torqued dress lines with postmodern readymades. This retrospective surveys his output thus far and includes as many mannequins as it does sculptures, installations, and film works. Chalayan seems inspired less by Gucci sex romps than by politics and architecture. Consider a 2001 show in which models wearing sugar glass shattered their dresses with hammers. Sometimes revolutionary and wearable can spring from the same tailor.