• Wolfgang Tillmans, Lutz & Alex sitting in the trees, 1992, unframed ink-jet print on paper, 70 x 54".

    Not in Fashion: Fashion and Photography in the 90s

    Domstraße 10
    September 25, 2010–January 9, 2011

    Curated by Sophie von Olfers

    When the addictively chic French magazine Purple first appeared in 1992, editors Olivier Zahm and Elein Fleiss seemed to be reacting against the ’80s proclivity for vacuous maximalism. The publication went on to generate an elite cult following unseen since ’70s Interview, becoming an outlet for a new sexy realist photo style—intensely intimate, decidedly less-clothes-the-better—that helped launch the careers of photographers such as Terry Richardson and Mario Sorrenti. This exhibition uses the journal as a jumping-off point to explore the originality and exaggerated idiosyncrasy of ’90s aesthetics. Iconic editorials and artwork of the era, fused with new installations and collaborations by its defining designers, photographers, and artists (Susan Cianciolo, Helmut Lang, Wolfgang Tillmans; performances by Vanessa Beecroft and others), suggest that while the ’90s might well be back in fashion, arguably they never went away.