In a series of black and white photographs, “What Should I Wear?,” 1993, Stuart Netsky changes his pose as often as his dress, creating coy, honest, then decidedly camp self-portraits. It was as if the artist were watching us watching him press against the cultural boundaries of gender identity. Seen before the installation, Time Flies, 1993, the portraits served as a prelude to the extended dialogue of that piece.

The installation was like a bizarre salon, museumlike in its considered arrangements, but illumined by a garish, violet glare borrowed from after-hours clubs. Unfolding around a large