new-york

Adolph de Meyer

International Center of Photography Museum (ICP)

Adolph de Meyer is largely remembered as a pictorialist photographer. He was a close friend of Gertrude Kasebier, and Alfred Stieglitz not only showed his work at the Photo-Secession Galleries in New York but also devoted two entire issues of Camera Work to his pictures. However, with the incredible ascendancy of fashion in recent times—we now have supermodels, though not superartists or superwriters—it should come as no surprise that this exhibition of de Meyer’s photography makes a convincing, intelligent argument for reevaluating the commercial work that he produced for magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar from about 1914 to 1932. Perhaps the exhibition even rescues de Meyer: today, being a forebear of Bruce Weber or Ellen von Unwerth is probably far more estimable than being a vassal in the mawkish Camelot of pictorialism.

The exhibition begins with the society portraiture and

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