THE FORTRESS OF CASTEL SANT'ELMO, built in Angevin times and enlarged during the sixteenth century, is located on the hilltop of the Vomero, next to the extraordinary monument of the Certosa di San Martino. When you get there you feel as if you've climbed over the clouds. From its many terraces and windows the fortress offers precisely the spellbinding view of the bay that comes to mind when one thinks of Naples. The title “Castelli in Aria: Arte a Napoli di Fine Millennio” (Castles in the air: Art in Naples at the end of the millennium), not only points to the somewhat surreal site of the