“Was auf der Alm eine Alm ist, ist in der Stadt ein Stüberl” (What on alpine meadows is an alpine hut is a cozy little pub in town): In the catalogue for Martin Wöhrl’s new show, this is how writer Andreas Neumeister describes the institution of the beer or wine hall typical of many German cities, along with its transformation from alpine authenticity to a globally recognizable cliché signifying beery (or winey) coziness. Tied up with the iconography of the Stüberl is the wooden barrel, a kitschy symbol of tradition and conviviality found everywhere in the German urban landscape, in the form of