View of “Apparel,” 2020.

View of “Apparel,” 2020.


Neon Parc | Tinning Street

At the far end of Neon Parc’s long, dark, windowless gallery, spotlights illuminated an arrangement of mannequins modeling outfits in various states of deconstruction. The mise-en-scène approximated an abandoned shopping mall: The mannequins—some very old, unclothed, and covered in dust—stood on platforms made from discarded building materials, and around the perimeter of the installation sat some miscellaneous office chairs, a decommissioned water boiler, and an ancient piece of projection equipment. Here, fashion was a site of ruin envisioned from some point in a postapocalyptic future.

In creating such an atmosphere, Matthew Linde, the curator of “Apparel,” channeled the subject of his exhibition: the oeuvre and influence of Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela. The designer’s catwalk shows, in which models drift through abandoned warehouses, parking garages, or metro stations freely

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