The luxurious Neoclassical Villa Reale in Milan, which is home to the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (GAM), boasts the oldest English garden in the city. It is open to adults only if they’re accompanying children under twelve, which makes the GAM, whose art collection focuses on the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, something of a tease: On the ground floor, its nearly floor-to-ceiling windows open onto a terrace that beckons you to a lush and secluded garden with a pond, wooden bridges, and a small playground, essentially inaccessible to most visitors. The duality of playfulness and frustration